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Chris Webb Parsons News
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One last Hoora
We made the drive back to Bishop for one last hoora.
We spent yesterday driving and arrived in Bishop tired and ready for bed.
The next morning we were feeling sprightly and made our way up to the Buttermilks.
The wind was blowing and the weather was cold so I got to it fast.
After a brief warm up and a stretch of my trusty shoulder haha, I jumped on the Buttermilker. A few failed attempts later, I managed to to send The Buttermilker Sit V13. Check the Gallery for Video
On a high from the send I took a few steps to the left and looked at a low start to One Mule Wonder V9.
I sat down and figured out how to do the hard moves. After a few minutes I was on my way to the top of the FA of What I called One Mule Lower. I graded it V11. The new problem starts on two little edges, after a hard pull on you grab the right facing undercling of One Mule Wonder and head to the summit. Classic of the crag.
I wanted to try a few other things today but down came the rain and we got washed out of the Milks so we are crossing our finger that the sun is shining tomorrow.
We have a few days left in Bishop then its back to Oz from me.
Check bishopbouldering.blogspot.com for a nice write up.

photo: Chris on sending The Buttermilker V13
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This news item posted Saturday 27th of February 2010 05:32 AM GMT
Last weeks
I'm now Back in the Oakland for some training.
On the last day in Bishop I wanted to send the Buttermilker Sit V13 but I fell with the last hold in my hand two times.
It was getting dark and I was too tired to have another shot on Buttermilker Sit, so I ran over to Thunderbird V11 and did it first go in the dark. Happy with that, I then sat down and tried to do Direction V13 but I was so tired and the little head touch was not enough to see the holds so I pulled the pin and we made the drive back to the Bay.
I have 2 weeks till I leave back to Australia so im going to do some tourist stuff in San Fran and Train my ass off in the gym.
I want to put some muscle back on my arms and shoulders so ill be lifting some wights and pulling on plastic for a while now. We might make a quick trip back to Bishop to hopefully get buttermilker Sit and maybe Direction done but ill see how we go.

Its now time to start training.

When I get back home its on. I'm going to be training harder and smarter than I ever have before.
Since I blew my shoulder out I have said “I'm going to take my climbing to a new level” Well I'm going to stick to what I said and go for it.
I'm happy with how my Bishop trip has gone. When I arrived in Bishop my shoulder and body felt week. I could not even link two moves on Buttermilker or even think about doing the last move on Direction. The other day I almost did Buttermilker from the Sit start two times and pretty much static the last move on Direction.
One of the best feeling I had during my stay here in Bishop was Hitting the final hold on Stained Glass V10. Although I managed to climb much harder problems than Stained Glass this trip, it was truly a pleasurable feeling standing on top of this boulder. It made me realize why climbing is so special.
The places you get to go, the people you get to meet, the wildlife the cultures you get to experience, the list goes on.
The smiles and happiness that climbing a piece of rock gives you cant be explained.
When I topped out on Stained Glass I looked up at the snow capped mountains and could only smile to myself and realize how lucky we are to be in this great sport and how great life is.
Your probably reading this sitting on your couch with the laptop on your lap or maybe your at work behind your desk? Whatever your doing I hope you all make time to get out and enjoy the world because its an amazing place.

photos: View of Bishop, Chris on Buttermilker
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This news item posted Sunday 21st of February 2010 12:08 AM GMT
Bishop Times
I'm still here in Bishop.
I have been here for a month now and I have been having a great time, although during my stay here I have had some really bad weather.
Its been dumping a lot of snow, then when the snow stops the rain starts.
You just cant win.
I have been climbing on anything I can find that is marginally dry but even that has been a tricky task at times so I have not been able to climb on everything I have wanted but being as this trip is meant to be a rehab trip I'm just happy to be here.
The weather in Bishop has finally started to fine up (and my skin is mostly healed) so I hope to get out on some dry rocks tomorrow.

Even though I have had some bad luck with the weather etc of late, I have managed to get up a few harder problems. I'm still not nearly as strong as I was before I was injured but I'm getting stronger every time I get on the rock.
A few of the harder problems I have done since being here in Bishop are:

The Oracle V13
Kill On Sight V12
Buttermilker V12
Mandala V12
La Bellette V11
Bubba But Buster V11
Babure Short V11
Standing Kill Order V11
The Mystery V11
Chizam Sit V10
Beef Cake V10
Centre Direct V10
Slow Dance V10
Redrum V10

I'm so happy to be climbing again. I hope 2010 is going to be a good year.
I have a lot of traveling planed for this year but we will see how it all plays out.
After my time here in USA I plan to head home to Oz and get stuck into the training.
Once I start to get some form back I'm planing on heading to The Grampians to boulder and try and get some projects done.
Then in either May, June or July I plan to head back to USA to boulder in Rocky Mountain National Park. I have never been to The Park and I cant wait to check it out.
I also plan to come back out to Hueco at the end of the year and I cant wait for that.
So a busy year planed ahead for me.
So I best be off to bed now, got to catch some ZZZZZZ for a big day of bouldering tomorrow.
Have a good one.

Photos: Will on Queen Sweet Nectar and Chris On Chizam Sit V10
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This news item posted Monday 15th of February 2010 05:42 AM GMT
New Video
Check out the new video in the Gallery.

The video is of some Classic boulders I climbed in Hueco in 2009.
Hope you enjoy

See you on the rocks.
This news item posted Saturday 06th of February 2010 06:56 PM GMT
Balkans Bouldering Looking Safe
I recieved the email bellow yesterday:

As many of you will be aware, Council's Development Assessment Unit met on Tuesday night to consider Council's report on the Go Ape proposal for a high ropes adventure course in Bidjigal Reserve.
At that meeting, the DAU refused consent for the development. Hooray!!! No Councillors requested that the decision be referred to a full Council meeting, so the decision of the DAU stands.
The Agenda of the meeting, which contains the report, can be found on the Council web site. However, a cut-down version, containing only the item relating to Go Ape, can be found here:

Development Assessment Unit meeting 2 Feb 2010 - Agenda - Item 4

It's worth having a look at; the phrases "does not comply" and "this issue warrants refusal of the application" appear a lot and look pretty good :D
The minutes of the meeting are not yet up on the Council web site, but I'll post them on the Save Bidjigal Reserve web site once they appear.
Go Ape and those who lodged submissions will receive a letter advising of the decision to refuse the application. The decision should also appear in the Council notices which are published in the local papers.
We would love to be shouting, "We won!", but we're not quite there yet. Go Ape have twelve months (!) in which to lodge an appeal with the Land & Environment Court.
The report considered at the DAU meeting gives this timetable of events after the Conciliation Conference:

24/09/2009 Letter sent to applicant summarising all issues relating to the development application and requesting withdrawal of application.

6/11/2009 Letter received from applicant partly responding to issues
raised and requesting Council staff continue to participate in negotiation with a view to supporting the development application.

19/11/2009 Letter sent to applicant advising that, on balance, the site is not suitable for development proposed and requesting withdrawal of application within 14 days.

24/11/2009 Advice received from applicant that application would not be withdrawn and requesting determination of the application in its current form.

Given that Go Ape ignored Council advice and requested "determination of the application in its current form", it's very difficult to see that L&E would look favourably on any appeal. But who knows?
So, we have a definite victory with Council, but we're only drinking cheap bubbly at this stage ;)
Thank you to everyone who submitted objections (230 of them!), attended meetings, emailed/phoned Councillors, photocopied, letterbox-dropped, gathered signatures, and gave assistance and support in myriad other ways!!! A special thanks to Michael, Peter and Tony who spoke so well on our behalf at the Conciliation Conference.
Pass on the news to interested friends and neighbours who are not on the mailing list. And if we have your name wrong or someone complains that they didn't get a copy of this email ... sorry! Transcribing from the petition sheets wasn't always easy.

Cheers
Di

Bidjigal Reserve Action Group
http://savebidjigalreserve.net/
info@savebidjigalreserve.net
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This news item posted Friday 05th of February 2010 06:57 PM GMT
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