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Chris Webb Parsons News
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Balkans Bouldering Looking Safe
I recieved the email bellow yesterday:

As many of you will be aware, Council's Development Assessment Unit met on Tuesday night to consider Council's report on the Go Ape proposal for a high ropes adventure course in Bidjigal Reserve.
At that meeting, the DAU refused consent for the development. Hooray!!! No Councillors requested that the decision be referred to a full Council meeting, so the decision of the DAU stands.
The Agenda of the meeting, which contains the report, can be found on the Council web site. However, a cut-down version, containing only the item relating to Go Ape, can be found here:

Development Assessment Unit meeting 2 Feb 2010 - Agenda - Item 4

It's worth having a look at; the phrases "does not comply" and "this issue warrants refusal of the application" appear a lot and look pretty good :D
The minutes of the meeting are not yet up on the Council web site, but I'll post them on the Save Bidjigal Reserve web site once they appear.
Go Ape and those who lodged submissions will receive a letter advising of the decision to refuse the application. The decision should also appear in the Council notices which are published in the local papers.
We would love to be shouting, "We won!", but we're not quite there yet. Go Ape have twelve months (!) in which to lodge an appeal with the Land & Environment Court.
The report considered at the DAU meeting gives this timetable of events after the Conciliation Conference:

24/09/2009 Letter sent to applicant summarising all issues relating to the development application and requesting withdrawal of application.

6/11/2009 Letter received from applicant partly responding to issues
raised and requesting Council staff continue to participate in negotiation with a view to supporting the development application.

19/11/2009 Letter sent to applicant advising that, on balance, the site is not suitable for development proposed and requesting withdrawal of application within 14 days.

24/11/2009 Advice received from applicant that application would not be withdrawn and requesting determination of the application in its current form.

Given that Go Ape ignored Council advice and requested "determination of the application in its current form", it's very difficult to see that L&E would look favourably on any appeal. But who knows?
So, we have a definite victory with Council, but we're only drinking cheap bubbly at this stage ;)
Thank you to everyone who submitted objections (230 of them!), attended meetings, emailed/phoned Councillors, photocopied, letterbox-dropped, gathered signatures, and gave assistance and support in myriad other ways!!! A special thanks to Michael, Peter and Tony who spoke so well on our behalf at the Conciliation Conference.
Pass on the news to interested friends and neighbours who are not on the mailing list. And if we have your name wrong or someone complains that they didn't get a copy of this email ... sorry! Transcribing from the petition sheets wasn't always easy.

Cheers
Di

Bidjigal Reserve Action Group
http://savebidjigalreserve.net/
info@savebidjigalreserve.net
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This news item posted Friday 05th of February 2010 06:57 PM GMT
Grampians Bouldering Guide Now Out
The long awaited Grampians Bouldering guidebook is hot off the press and is set for release on Feb 22nd. Pre-orders can be made through your local climbing gyms and outdoor retailers (through Open Spaces Publishing) or online through our new website:

www.grampiansbouldering.com

Check out a preview of the upcoming guide, buy a copy online, view and submit news of bouldering in the Grampians and stay in the know with updates on newly developed problems and sectors.

We are really happy with how the guide has turned out and would like to thank everyone in the Australian climbing scene who has helped us out over the last year. Without your support we would still be wandering aimlessly out the back of Stapylton somewhere.

Grab yourselves a copy and we'll see you at the crag.

Photo: Chris, happy now the guide is out ROARRRRRR.
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This news item posted Thursday 04th of February 2010 04:24 AM GMT
A Far Away Place
This story starts in a far away place (from Australia). Where the weekend warrior will flock, the chuffers will chuff and drink beer at the crag and the snow will fall.
The Happy boulder, Bishop. A few days ago I sent a few cool problems even though they were a little wet. Standing Kill Order V11 and Kill Onsight V12 and Bubba But Buster V11.
Everything is wet in Bishop because a monster storm came through and covered everything in snow. (for the Australians, snow is white and cold stuff hahaha) The snow is melting now and most of the boulders are wet wet wet.
I have not been able to try problems that I want to but I'm still having a good time. That was until my other shoulder (my good one) dislocated two days ago. Yes you read correctly, my other shoulder fucked out.
I was crossing through to pocket when my foot popped off a hold causing my shoulder to dislocate.
After a few days of deciding what cliff to jump off I went to the Dr and got my shoulder checked out.
Im not going to go into the whole story because my shoulders are all I seem to talk about over the last year, but in short, turns out my shoulder is ok. I cant believe it.
So today me and Will went to the Sad boulders to have a climb and of course the boulders were wet.
We through our pads back in the truck and punched over to another area called The Buttermilks.
On arrival things looked good and the boulders looked dry. We walked up the hill in the snow , turns out Everything was wet. Well not everything was wet but most things.
I warmed up tested my shoulder (now shoulderS) out and they felt good. Once I was warm, I jumped on the last move (the crux) of Direction V13 and to my surprise pretty much staticed the move although I slipped off the next hold cause it was wet and put a nasty little hole in my finger.
Even though my skin was shagged I was still on a high, only yesterday I thought I might never climb again. I pulled my boots on again and managed to send The Oracle V13. It felt hard today because the last holds where as wet as ducks nuts but I managed to keep my hands closed all the way to the finish.

I'm going to go back to San Fran for a few days now, to rest my skin but more importantly go to a weights gym and rehab my shoulders.
After San Fran we will be heading either back out to Bishop or maybe down to Vegas to boulder at Red Rocks or we may even head out to Moe's Valley to see what the deal is there?
On another note, my good mate Will has hurt his shoulder aswell. I wish him all the best with getting that thing back into shape.
Until then amigos.......

photos. Chris sending The Oracle and the Buttermilks in snow.
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This news item posted Sunday 31st of January 2010 02:20 AM GMT
Minnesota Bouldering blogspot
check out this Interview with me and some other climbers.

http://www.nicrosclimbing.blogspot.com/ or chriswebbparsons.com
This news item posted Monday 25th of January 2010 08:44 AM GMT
Buttermilker AAAARRRRRHHHHH
I woke up early this morning and we arrived at the buttermilks at 9am.
It was freezing but we soon got moving and I began to warm up.
I jumped on Buttermilker (stand) V12 and came close to sending it, but my foot blew off the tiny foot hold and I was standing on the mat again.
After a short rest I had another shot and ripped another hole in my finger.
My finger just would not stop bleeding so I had to call it a day.

The early morning start was not a total wast of time as Dave sent Soul Slinger V9.
We headed back to the house to chill for the rest of the day as Will is not feeling very well.

After a few hours of sitting at home I had a wave of motivation come over me and I headed back up to the boulders. Bloody fingers and all.
The plan was to go and try A Scanner Darkly V12 but as I drove past the Buttermilker I thought I would give it one more crack.
I warmed up slowly, gave my shoulder a little test on some bigger holds. It felt good.
I was ready to try the Buttermilker again.
I pulled on to the under clings, slapped out to the first hold, put my foot up on the high foothold. My shoulder gave a few little pops but there was no pain. I continued on and found myself on top of the Buttermilker.

This problem is a massive breakthrough for me with my shoulder. I tried the moves on the Buttermilker last week and it felt impossible for me to climb it with my shoulder. After a few days now of just holding the positions and doing some of the moves my shoulder is getting stronger and stronger.

I now have some of the worst skin I have ever had so I need to take a few rest days although I'm sure that wont happen hahaha!
This news item posted Sunday 17th of January 2010 01:51 AM GMT
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